SPECIAL FEATURE LENGTH ARTICLE
By Kathy Witt
“A man told me, ‘They have the smartest people in the world out there in Oak Ridge, but there’s not a one of them who knows what it is that they’re doing.’”
One of Tennessee’s best-kept secrets is the aptly nicknamed “Secret City.” The town sprung up, seemingly overnight, in 1942 beneath the cloak of government classification on a 60,000-acre tract of land that would itself grow, seemingly overnight, into Tennessee’s fifth largest city: Oak Ridge.
In “Cooking Behind the Fence, Recipes and Recollections from the Oak Ridge ‘43 Club,” Dr. Lewis Preston (quoted above), an Army first lieutenant who chose going to Oak Ridge during World War II over going overseas, and others recall the early days of the mysterious metropolis that was home to the now historic Manhattan Project, a massive wartime effort which produced the world’s first atomic weapons.
Says Sue Wassom Thomas, a student when she arrived in Oak Ridge with her family, in her remembrance: “There were only three flattops on our street when I left for school one morning. When I came home from school that afternoon, there was a whole new neighborhood of flattops – finished, furnished and occupied.”
Deep, dark secrets
This once-secret city, with its natural, historic and family attractions, shopping and local foodie favorites like the Soup Kitchen, Golden Girls (“Yes, we have our own Blanche!”) and Big Ed’s Pizza, a boisterous dig-in-with-your-hands hang-out, now proclaims its presence from the top of its International Friendship Bell. The Friendship Bell, by the way, is the first monument between a U.S. Manhattan Project city and Japan and serves as an expression of hope for everlasting peace.
Museums abound, beginning with the American Museum of Science and Energy where you’ll discover how 75,000 people kept mum about a national secret. The museum interprets Oak Ridge’s role in World War II through exhibits that include Cold War/Civil Defense, Real Robots, a vortex simulator, science and technology careers work station. New to the museum is a flattop home, fully restored to its original “Secret City” floor plan and that may be toured. (Note: The home was closed for repairs due to damage in the excessive rains of July but is due to reopen in September.)
The flattop model was one of five home designs, designated “A” through “F” according to size, which included central heat, porches and fireplaces, and assigned primarily according to family size. Three thousand cemesto houses, which took two hours each to build, were completed at the rate of one every thirty minutes.
This particular house, a “B-1” two-bedroom flattop design, it has a mere 576 square feet of living space and has been preserved with its original built-in furnishings, including desks. Visitors to the home will literally be walking across historic floorboards and will learn about the families who arrived in Oak Ridge more than a half century ago to build a life in a city that wasn’t named on any maps at that time.
At the Historic Graphite Reactor, listed on the National Register of Historic Places and a part of Oak Ridge National Laboratory (formerly X-10), visitors will see the world’s oldest nuclear reactor built as part of the Manhattan Project.
“I wasn’t sure how a light bulb worked when I got here,” recalled the late Graydon (Grady) Whitman who arrived in Oak Ridge in March, 1944, at the age of 23 to work at the Y-12 National Security Complex, built to separate the uranium 235 isotope from natural uranium. The former volunteer interpreter with the Oak Ridge Visitor Center loved to share his experience: “I was flung into one of the control rooms and told to manage it. I grew up very quickly.”
Visitors can board the Secret City excursion train, a.k.a., the Atomic Train – restored to the 1940s era of passenger railroading – on a one-hour, 14-mile tour that departs from the Heritage Center, formerly the K-25 Gaseous Diffusion Plant, whose artifacts include wooden crates with spare parts and some vintage instruments. A model of the reactor lets visitors insert mock fuel rods and measure the increasing levels of “radioactivity” as the model reactor goes “critical.” The northern portion of the excursion route was featured in the 1999 biography/drama, “October Sky.”
On a lighter note
In spite of its former secret and serious mission, this town knows how to play. The Children’s Museum of Oak Ridge is a whole school of fun with 12 interactive exhibit areas that intertwine the arts, history, science and the environment in non-traditional exhibit galleries. Within the 54,000 square feet of this original Manhattan Project schoolhouse, children can dig coal in an Appalachian mine, pound the percussion in the music room, shoot boats down the waterways through the locks and stop to smell the bromeliads in the rainforest.
Dolls from all over the world are displayed throughout the museum: colorful souvenir dolls from Brazil, Native American dolls in traditional dress, life-size puppets and others. In International Hall, the smooth wooden Japanese Kokeshi dolls, an 80-piece collection donated to the museum by the Smithsonian Institute in 1974, are a handle-with-care item. In the Doll House room, two fun collections hark back to earlier times with “Your Grandma’s Dolls” and “Your Great-Grandma’s Dolls.”
The big attraction here is a trim two-story pink house that children as tall as five feet high can comfortably fit in and through. Big squashy chairs invite kids to come sit a spell and no one can resist peeking into the refrigerator or climbing the stairs to the second floor.
Other Oak Ridge attractions: the Oak Ridge Art Center where you can explore works by contemporary international artists; the Oak Ridge Playhouse, one of the oldest continually operating community theaters in the country, for exceptional productions (past shows have included “Grease” and “The Pajama Game”; and Historic Jackson Square/Greenwich Village where you can while away the hours browsing the shops. This was the original town site of Oak Ridge, built during the Manhattan Project years, and now features unique shopping and dining, showy gardens and historic displays.
In the 1940s, homesteads were flung up faster than residents could find their way home at the end of a work day to create a community. Although these “cemestos,” a cement and asbestos combo, were supposed to last just seven years, many of them are still lived in today and it is fun to take a driving tour through the neighborhood and see these petite “alphabet” houses.
“I recall the feel of the house, the newness, the warmth of body and spirit,” recalled Katherine Bolling in Cooking Behind the Fence, who arrived in Oak Ridge with her husband and young daughter on a cold, snowy day in 1941. “I could sense that coming to Oak Ridge had been a good decision.”
Visitors will likewise feel good about coming to this historic once-secret city.
If You Go
The cookbook, Cooking Behind the Fence: Recipes and Recollections from the Oak Ridge ’43 Club, was published by the Oak Ridge Heritage and Preservation Association. Contact them to purchase a copy: P.O. Box 5825, Oak Ridge, TN 37831, 865-481-0542.
Lodging options include the Hampton Inn, 800-426-7876 http://hamptoninn.hilton.com, and the DoubleTree Inn, 800-222-8733, http://doubletree1.hilton.com, as well as several other chain hotels and a number of campgrounds and marinas in Anderson County.
Oak Ridge Convention and Visitors Bureau, 800-887-3429, www.oakridgevisitor.com
Photo: flattop Bedroom; credit: American Museum of Science and Energy